europa skin care : natural, organic & science-based skin care

Tuesday, May 5, 2020

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid benefits:
  • Elasticity
  • Moisturizing 
Hyaluronic acid, also referred to in skin care as hyaluronate or HA, is a naturally occurring polysaccharide that is found throughout the skin. Hyaluronic acid is glorified for its ability to enhance moisture-retention and skin-hydration. This is due to hyaluronic acid’s ability to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water. For this reason, products with hyaluronic acid (i.e. hyaluronic acid lotion, hyaluronic acid cream, hyaluronic acid liquid care) may serve as effective skin-soothing therapeutics for skin dryness. (1)

Hyaluronic acid molecule

As we age, our levels of hyaluronic acid and collagen decline, thus making our skin more susceptible to aging signs (i.e., fine lines and wrinkles). Topical application of hyaluronic acid has been shown to help decrease water loss from the skin’s surface as well as draw in moisture from the surrounding environment. By significantly increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, various skin factors, such as barrier function and texture, can be improved. 2 This may also enable hyaluronic acid skin care products to play a role in improving skin-elasticity.  Hyaluronic acid can most commonly be found in moisturizing skincare products such as lotions, creams, and serums.

(1) Pavicic, T. et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD 10.9, 990-1000 (2011)
(2) Sundaram, H. et al. Pilot Comparative Study of the Topical Action of a Novel, Crosslinked Resilient Hyaluronic Acid on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in a Dynamic, Three-Dimensional Human Explant Model. Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD 15.4, 434-441 (2016)

There are three types of hyaluronic acid:
  1. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is hyaluronic acid that has been broken down into elements small enough to penetrate the skin, Gasquet says. It’s moisturizing, but not the most moisturizing option, so it’s best for people who have oily or combination skin, since these skin types want to avoid over-moisturizing.
  2. Sodium hyaluronate goes deeper into the skin and delivers even better results, though the effects aren’t very long lasting, Gasquet says. “Sodium hyaluronate is best for people who have normal skin, because it will allow moisture to seep in, but you don’t really need a heavy-duty, long-lasting effect.” This is the ingredient you’ll likely find in serums.
  3. Sodium acetylated hyaluronate has the benefits of sodium hyaluronate but with longer-lasting results. It’s best for people who need moisture, such as those with dry skin, those who live in dry climates, or those looking for a product for the dry winter months.